Boned pork leg lightly smoked over beech and juniper, air-cured in the mountain air and sliced thin, the Tyrolean 'merenda' with rye bread and pickles.
Trentino-Alto Adige cuisine
Italy's Alpine north is two kitchens: Tyrolean Alto Adige with its smoked speck, bread dumplings, goulash and apple strudel, and Trentino with its herb-green strangolapreti and Vino Santo. The wines follow the valleys, light red Schiava (Vernatsch) and dark, plummy Lagrein and Teroldego, aromatic Gewürztraminer and Nosiola, and the crisp mountain whites of the Alto Adige slopes.
Antipasto
Primo
Bread-and-speck (or cheese) dumplings, Knödel, bound with egg and milk, poached and served in a clear beef broth or with melted butter.
Trentino 'priest-stranglers', green dumplings of stale bread, spinach or chard and egg, dressed with melted butter, sage and grated cheese.
Little green spinach spätzle tossed in a cream sauce with strips of crisped speck and a shower of Parmigiano, a Tyrolean comfort dish.
Secondo
Beef braised slowly with onions, paprika, marjoram and a little lemon zest until thick, eaten with canederli or polenta.
Roe deer marinated in red wine and juniper, then braised into a dark 'salmì', the taste of the Dolomite autumn, served with polenta.
A whole pork shank slow-roasted with herbs and beer or wine until the meat falls off the bone and the skin crackles, a Tyrolean feast dish.
Dolce
Thin pastry rolled around spiced apples, raisins, pine nuts and breadcrumbs, the Tyrolean dessert brought south into the Alto Adige.
Typical products
DOP, IGP and traditional specialities of Trentino-Alto Adige.

The crisp, sweet-tart mountain apples (above all Golden Delicious) grown on the sunny terraces of the Non valley.

A pungent, smear-ripened cow's-milk cheese of the Val di Fassa, its damp orange rind hiding a supple, aromatic paste.

Trout raised in the cold, clear mountain streams and lakes of Trentino, firm-fleshed and delicate.

A small, dark, intensely sweet plum of the Sarca valley around Dro, eaten fresh or dried.

The thin, hard, spiced rye flatbread of South Tyrol, flavoured with fennel and caraway and dried to keep for months.

Alpine honeys of the high meadows and forests, from acacia and wildflower to dark honeydew.